From Syria to Turkey to Bangkok

After a whirlwind spin through Syria - roman ruins, bazaars, crusader castles, abandoned stone cities giving us a glimpse into 2,000 year old civilisations; all inclusive hot, dusty, dirty and the chaotic traffic.

Allepo into Turkey with its greener landscape outside our sleeper train; hills, trees, rivers and little rubbish what a contrast to the desert scenery. Touristy Cappadoccia - where we could eat muesli and marvel over the cone head landscapes onward through to a beautiful town with Ottoman houses overhanging the river. Blew the budget staying the charming 100 year old Ottoman Pasha Otel. Onward to the Black Sea gateway to Hazelnut trees and Kashgar Mountains where we climbed Mt Kashgar 3900 - no crampons or iceaxes! Views to never forget.
Bahal saw ambles through summer pastures and deserted alpine villages to the tops up to the Black Lake. Clinging to the valley sides we stayed in our favourite pension ever, run by father and son- hated to leave.

Pack em up and move em on to the border of Iran to Dogebyzit a dusty frontier town where we saw the Palace hitching a ride with a Kurdish family - it rained!
Kars was next on the Armenian Border. Thought we had seen enough ruins however we loved Ani 1000 year old ghostly city with huge stone buildings above vast desolate grassland with Soviet era watchtowers. The Armenian border was just over the river.

Traversing the length of Turkey from East to West saw 36 hours on the train! Then the ferry from Asia to Europe making an immediate impact on us with exquisite architecture Ottoman mosques and palaces 600 years old. Beautiful, energetic people and city; underlying disparity in a sprawling metropolis. We marveled at the Aya Sofia dome and the underground cistern a huge engineering feat. Enjoyed the modern gallery and bazaar around the waterfront of the Bosphorous and the Golden Horn as well as rubbing shoulders with the throngs down Istikial Street showcase of cosmopolitan Turkey and of course the fab restaurants. Shame about the seedy otels and revelry outside the window - our fault if ya can't beat em s'pose.

South to Gallipoli - iconic place names Chunck Bair, Lone Pine, Anzac Cove; sobering battle fields and cemeteries. Excellent guide bought the war stories alive for us. Ferry to Gokceada - rugged and windy overlooking a Greek Island without commercialism - wonderful deserted beaches and ramblings around the coast. Hitched and climbed the mountain behind Tepekoy an unspoilt Greek village. On Boscarda Island we reveled in being on bikes again despite battling the wind, swimming in our own beach where our pension was set amid grapes and fig trees, yummy.
We flew to Bangkok via Bahrain where I don't imagine happiness get any better? eating authentic Thai food, markets for Julie and Thai massage for Jo. Traffic gridlocking the streets, tropical humidity, skyscraper yet traditional old world with orange monks shrines and warm people away from those dealing with farangs anyway.

Our private bike tour through the countryside the highlight - visiting 600 year old temples, canal and country lanes past everyday life with the sent of herbs and flowers alongside ponging waterways, rubbish and snapping dogs.